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One found with joy that the traditional Indian spice mix podi – a rubble of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if made of wood, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

400g firm potatoes, cut into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
One teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml neutral oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Place in a sizable container with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.